Aspire NX75

Aspire NX75

Regular price £44.99 Sale

Max Wattage:75W
Fits in Pocket:Comfortable

Aspire NX75 Mod is a stylish 18650 battery MOD that is extremely functional and durable thanks to its robust single block design. Notable features include its build quality wherefrom it fires from 1-75w with a temperature control range (supports various vaping wires from 200°F-600°F/100°C-315°C), one-button navigation between Temperature Control and Wattage mode and a Customizable Firing Button Profiles (CFBP) function that makes it easy to fine-tune the heat ramp-up (power curve). In addition, the Aspire NX75 features Child Lock.

Aspire NX75 Aspire
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Aspire NX75 Box Mod Review! (EVO)
Credit to: Vaporleaf
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Aspire Aspire NX75 reviews

Video Transcript: Aspire NX75 Box Mod Review! (EVO) by Vaporleaf

What's going on, everybody? This is the Logan here with Vaporleaf, today with the Aspire NX75 Box mod. This is a single 18650 Box mod that can do up to 75W. It can do temp control with nickel, titanium, and stainless. It's got upgradeable firmware, and it's got a slew of other modes. So let's go ahead and dive down and take a closer look at it.

Alright. So here we are with the Aspire NX75. Inside of the box here, you of course get the device itself. If you pull that out and then pull this foam out, you also get your user manual. I have found this thing to be very handy, as well a kind of little cheat sheet for all the different button presses and things like that. Again, very handy for this device. And a little warranty card and your micro USB cable tucked away in its own little foam compartment.

And as far as the device itself goes, we've got a pretty slick looking paint job on here. It's just a really simple, boxy shape; no funny contours or anything like that. And they reflected that in the fire button, W button, T button, minus button, and plus button, and even the screen here. We've also got our Aspire logo on this side, the NX75 badge on the other side, as well as their micro USB port right here.

Now, that micro USB port does worry me a little bit because it doesn't look like it's resting on the body at all. And typically when you see that, that means that it's just connected to the board with a tiny amount of solder. So that means that's gonna be very, very sensitive to any twerking or wiggling or anything like that. So as long as you just plug in straight in, pulling straight out, it should be absolutely fine, but if it's getting wiggled around, if you're sitting on it, laying on it in bed, if you're even just vaping on it while you're using it and it gets tugged or something like that, I would expect that to break. I can't say for sure, but I would be very careful about that if I were you.

You've also got a little bit of venting on the bottom here to keep everything cool, and a pretty slick little 510 connection up top. It's just painted all over the top, no metal sticking out, and then inside of there you've got your threads and your nice little 510 connection in there. Very clean.

One really unusual thing about this device is actually the way that you get to your battery. So it is a magnetic battery door, but you can see there's not really any battery slide in here. That's actually built in to the door here. So you can see we've got positive marked down here, negative marked up here. So if we slide a battery in there, positive first, it's all one piece that we can then slide into the device. Nice and snug too.

Now that we've got a battery in there, we can see our screen layout. This is just Wattage mode. We've got W here, indicating that it is, in fact, Wattage mode. We've got a 13 here, indicating our power level. We've got Aspire up top, this little lock logo up here, your resistance, and then your battery life.

In Temp Control mode, it's basically the same. You get the material that you have it set to, your maximum temperature there. And then that same logo, lock, resistance, and battery life. Now typically, to turn the device off you do five quick clicks on the fire button, but in this case, that just locks it, and of course you can do five quick clicks to unlock it as well. But if you wanna turn it all the way off, you do the five quick clicks to lock it, and then hold the fire button down until it says system off. And then of course to get it back on, it's just gonna be those five clicks again.

The other interesting thing about that is you can click the fire button three times to go into Stealth mode. At that point, none of the buttons are gonna look like they're doing anything. You can't use the W, T, minus, or plus buttons, but you can still use the fire button. I can go in and screw an atomizer on here really quick to help show that. So if we do three clicks, that's gonna bring it out of Stealth mode, and then we can turn the power up. I'm just gonna go cruise all the way up to 75W here. So you can see, we're up at 75W. I hit the fire button, atomizer fires, and if I do the three clicks, one, two, three, it looks like the device is off, but the fire button still works. So we're gonna do those three clicks again to bring it back out of Stealth mode. The screen just pops right back on.

Now, the other thing you can do if you want to disable these buttons but still be able to use the fire button, but you also wanna see the screen, is just hold W and plus, and that's gonna turn that little lock right there. Do the same thing again, you can see it'll unlock it. Now, this actually did confuse me when I was learning how to use this guy, 'cause I was like, Well, the fire button still works, but none of these guys work, and then I noticed the little padlock in the corner there. So I really appreciate that indicator always being on the screen.

So if we go ahead and undo that really quick just with the wattage and plus button, unlock that padlock, we can click the W button to get through all the different power-based modes, and the T button to get through all the different temperature-based modes. So first one, of course, is wattage, 1-75 watts. If we click the W again, that's gonna get us into Voltage mode. The really cool thing about Voltage mode is it's actually a lot more consistent than Wattage mode. If your resistance tends to change around a lot, then voltage is gonna give you a much better, much more consistent, at least experience.

And then, of course, that's just gonna scroll up and down, as is typical with wattage. If we press the W button again, we get to B. That's actually gonna be Bypass mode; that's why it's not showing any number there. If I hit the fire button, it's just gonna fire directly from the battery. Personally, I don't find much use in bypass mode, but if you like mechanical mods but want it to be safer, then that's a really good way to do it.

If we press W again, that's gonna get us into the C1, C2, and C3 modes. Now these guys are a bit of a doozy, so stick with me here. If you see all those little bars there, this is basically a pre-heat mode. But it's a continuous pre-heat, so you can change for every half second, from 0-10 seconds, what that specific wattage is gonna be. Now, if we hold the W button for 1.5 seconds, that'll bring us into this little menu here. We can scroll through the different time settings with the W and T buttons here. So you can see seconds is at zero right now, 0.5, 1, 1.5. Again, stepping up half seconds, all the way up to 10 seconds. And you can see the numbers will change for each of those as well. So you can set the wattage for each half second.

So let's say I want this to start off as powerful as it can get. I want that first half second to be all the way up at 75W. But then that starts to get a little too hot, too fast. So I'll just step forward to 0.5 seconds, and I wanna run it maybe about 60W. And then for that next half second, I'm probably gonna run it at about 50W. And you can see what pattern I'm going with here. I have a big pre-heat, and then I have it mellow out a little bit. And then at that point, that's at one second. So probably for every profile after that, I wanna just keep it at 50W. Maybe about three or four seconds in, I'll have it drop to 40 and then 30. We'll see how that goes.

Now, as you can probably imagine, this does take a while 'cause you've got a total of, what is it? 20 pre-heats to set with each wattage value for each half second. I'm at the 4-second mark. I typically don't take drags longer than four seconds, so I'm gonna leave the rest of this looking kind of ugly, but then we can just tap the fire button to get back out. And then we can see, when we hold the fire button, our profile will actually start counting out. I think that's a pretty cool feature.

Now, I don't think this is gonna be the most useful feature in the world to a lot of people, but it's still pretty handy, and it's really clever. It just takes a good amount of time to set it, so you have to be willing to play around with it. The other side is, if you wanna play around with a few different profiles at once, if we keep pressing that W button, we've also got C2 and C3. So you can have, say, for three different atomizers, or just your morning profile where it's lower on power, your afternoon profile where it's a little higher, and evening when it's higher still; something like that.

Now, as far as the T button here goes, as I said, that's gonna get us through all the different temperature control settings. First one, it's actually gonna say New atomizer, yes or no? When you tell it yes or no, that's gonna lock the resistance in. And the first mode we get into is Nickel. It's pretty straightforward. If you've ever used temperature control, you set your maximum temperature, you make sure you use a nickel coil. It already set your resistance for you, and you're pretty much good to go at that point. If we press T again, exactly the same thing, but with titanium. Exactly the same thing, but with stainless steel with another press, and then we get into the TCR modes, which again, look exactly the same.

So you might be wondering, at this point, how you change anything and why those are different. So if we actually hold the T and up buttons, it gets us into our TCR menu. At this point, you can change the wattage for each individual temperature-control mode. To scroll through them, you just press the T button for titanium, stainless steel, TCR, M1, M2, and M3. And in the TCR modes, you can change your wattage as well as the TCR. So you can look up what those values should be.

And in the TCR modes here, to get down to your TCR, you just press W, and then you can press W again to get back up to wattage. So again, T is gonna scroll through all the different settings, W is gonna get you down to the TCR setting here, and plus and minus are gonna change those values. So really, it's pretty straightforward, pretty simple. And then to get back out of that menu, we just press T and plus again, and we're set where we need to be.

Now, there are a couple more weird things about this device before we move on. We have a Child Lock mode. So to get to that, we have W and minus; we're gonna hold those down. That's gonna bring us to this password screen. Now, the stock password is just 0-0-0, and then you can see that it will lock it. So you have to have your password to get it into the Child Lock mode. So if a kid picks it up and they press the fire button, it's just gonna show him the lock. If, for some reason, they figure out that it's W and minus, then they still have to figure out the password.

So to open it up again, the password is just 0-0-0 on this guy, and then we're back. Now, if we hold the W and minus buttons again, we'll get back into this screen here, and if we scroll all the way over to the other side, we have the reset option. So you have to put in your old password, which is pretty clever. So if a kid figures out that they can reset the password, they have to know your old password still before they can give you a new one. So now we can say we want 1-1-1, and then set it.

So now if we do the W and minus, it's gonna bring us this screen. We have to put in 1-1-1, and it's gonna lock it. To open it back up, we put in 1-1-1. Now the other thing you can do is change the logo, which is literally gonna be the word Aspire at the top of the screen. If you hold T and minus, it brings you to this keyboard screen. Now, I know this is getting a little bit ridiculous, but it's still kinda cool if you just wanna put your name on there. Someone says, Oh, hey, are you Logan? You forget your device, or something like that. It's pretty easy to navigate. The T button is gonna change between upper case and lower case, W button is gonna be our back space, and then plus and minus are going to be what you use to navigate. You've got the space button up here as well. So once you're done putting in exactly what you want there, you do exactly the same to get out of this menu: It's just T and minus.

Probably the weirdest or coolest part about this device, depending on who you are, is if you take the battery out and then hold the fire button down as you're putting the battery back in, you can choose between English and Chinese. If we flip it over to Chinese, we get this screen here. I have no idea what that means. We can just pull the battery door back off, hold the fire button down again, put the battery back in, and then change it back to English. So it's not the end of the world if you accidentally get it over to Chinese.

So that's about all there is for settings today. I'm just gonna go ahead and put it back into Wattage mode. I'm gonna be vaping at 75W with my Velocity clone on here today. So let's go out and bring it up top and see how it does.

Alright, so we're all set up. We're just keeping it simple today with 75W. I've got my Velocity clone on there. It's reading 0.16 ohms. Those tiny little fused Claptons, you may have seen before. Let's go ahead and see how it does. Quite nicely, actually. Well, you know what? That doesn't usually put out that much power at 75W on my, what is it, IPV3. Not the LI, just the old one. That is stunning performance for such a tiny little device. I'm really surprised by that.

Let's go ahead and try the Bypass mode. It's definitely weaker. Says it's putting out just under 3 volts. It looks like my battery is a little bit under half. Let's go ahead and try that C1 mode that I set up earlier. That was weird. That's pretty cool, actually. I didn't think I would like it that much. I mentioned earlier that might be a really pointless setting, but that's actually... That's really cool. I've mentioned before, these multiple pre-heat settings are quite a lot like temperature control, but without actually having temperature control. That's exactly what that felt like. As it vaped, it didn't get hotter; it just stayed exactly the same heat. That was really cool.

One thing I forgot to mention earlier, by the way, is the screen has an accelerometer. So if you flip it, then it rotates the screen as well. Obviously, the hand-feel isn't the best with a sharp-cornered, straight-up rectangular box mod, but it's still not bad, and it may just be partially because I've just been vaping for God knows how many years at this point. But it's a pretty natural feel in my hand.

The build quality seems really nice. I am a little bit concerned about that micro USB port, and the buttons feel like they get a little bit mushy after a while. So this is definitely one of those devices that I think there are too many settings, almost, that they can even just get frustrating. But if you just wanna run in Power mode or you just wanna use one of the pre-heat temperature control settings, something like that, it's really simple to get through, and I hope I helped you guys figure some of that out today.

So on that note, that's about gonna be it for today, guys. Thank you so much for watching. That was the Aspire NX75. If you have any questions about it, please feel free to leave a comment. If you liked the video, then like the video, and if you wanna see all the latest and greatest videos from Vaporleaf, be sure to subscribe. Bye.