AKA: V12 Prince RBA Core Dual Coils

Regular price £8.99 Sale

Type:Sub Ohm

The SMOK Prince RBA is a fairly simple rebuildable RBA core that has been developed only for the SMOK TFV12 Prince kit. This tank comes with all that you need to put in your own coils as well with some of the ever-popular Fused Clapton coils. The deck of this tank has very big wicking holes to make sure that vapers never have to have another dry hit. A 5ml extension glass comes included with this tank due to the original glass not really being large enough to hold the deck. In addition to that, you can buy an 8 ml Fatboy Bubble glass from somewhere else as it is also compatible and is able to hold more juice. SMOK is a very reputable brand and is famed for having high-quality vape products.

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How to Build the SMOK TFV12 Prince RBA
Credit to: VapnFagan
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SMOK SMOK Prince RBA reviews

Video Transcript: How to Build the SMOK TFV12 Prince RBA by VapnFagan

What's going on everyone out there in YouTube land? So today, we're gonna do a quick one. Today, we're gonna check out the new RBA section for the TFV12 Prince tank from SMOK. You know, the SMOK sub-ohm tank that got reviewed a few weeks ago. Well, everyone's been asking, Is there an RBA section, is there an RBA section? Yes, there is an RBA section. Just got it yesterday, so it's still somewhat new to me. I will say it's a very basic RBA section. I was expecting something completely different, but yeah, anyways, I do got one. I kinda already did this, but I already got it preinstalled and... Well, not preinstalled, I installed it, so I guess it's I-installed. Anyways, on the Prince tank, 0.25 the build ohmed out to, and I got it at 85 watts, vaping on some of Mr. Joe Turner from the Royal Vape.

Strawberry Custard Donut, very heavily steeped. Let's have a vape, and we'll dive into this lovely little RBA section. Oh no, by the way, I have an extra one. So, of course, it will be going into the Christmas stocking, and you will get a Prince tank in there also. So, you're set to go. Alright, shut up, let's have a vape... This build worked out beautifully for this device, or for this tank. Now, the RBA section was sent over by SMOK for the purpose of this review. I did do a search online, found it over at a few vendors like Heaven Gifts. I think My Vapor Store also has them, but I'll have links in the description. Going price for the RBA section... I found the lowest price around $9.99, all the way up to $14.95.

So let's have a closer look at the RBA section, or the rebuildable section, for the TFV12 Prince sub-ohm tank by SMOK. Gonna come in this little plastic box, and inside the box is going to be your RBA section. Now, they will have a dual-coil already pre-installed that's gonna ohm out to a 0.25. They're gonna toss in some Japanese organic cotton. You're gonna get an Allen key, some extra post screws and an O-ring. Here's a closer look at the pre-installed coils. Once again, they ohm out to a 0.25. 3 millimeter inner diameter. And as you can see, they are spaced coils. And the build we're gonna do is actually gonna be much different, a much, much smaller coil. I'm gonna try something out.

And we're gonna experiment a little bit, but, yeah, there's the premade coils you get. And if you guys want a closer look at the RBA section before we toss a build on it, there it is. Just your typical stainless steel build section. There's gonna be your juice ports, and if we unscrew this, we have a 17 millimeter build deck. This is a standard Velocity-style post. 2 millimeter post holes, Allen screws in the post, and that large air hole in the center, measuring 12 millimeters by 5 millimeters. Now, before we toss a build on here, I just recommend taking your screwdriver and just confirming and assuring that the negative and the positives are tight. I've had no issues with this particular RBA section, but there have been a few in the past where they sometimes arrive loose, so you just wanna make sure everything is tight on there before you start building on it. Everything appears to be nice and tight. So, got my TFV12 Prince's base.

We're gonna screw that down in here. Now I'm gonna be using these staggered fused Claptons from Coilology. Now, these are usually 3 millimeters in inner diameter, but I actually shrunk them down to 2 millimeters, and I added an extra wrap. And the reason for adding the extra wrap is, when I build on the Velocity-style post, I like to have the leads perfectly line up with the post holes. So that way, the coil isn't too short, and I have to bend the leads, or the coil is too long, so adding an extra wrap, the leads line up perfectly with the post. A little trick for the newer builders out there. If you guys use premade coils like I do, usually the premade coils come in 3 millimeter or 2.5, and if you wanna make the coil larger or smaller, it's really easy to do it. Just take your coiling rod, and if you're gonna make the coil larger, just bend the leads out, like so, as you screw your coiling rod down, and you could make the coil larger and you could add an extra wrap. Now, if you wanna make the coil much smaller, like I did in this particular instance, we're gonna drop it down to 2 millimeters, just drop it down to the very bottom, grab a pair of pliers, and all you need to do is just give a tug on one of the leads.

Pull it real tight, and then do the opposite one. And now you have a 2 millimeter coil. Now, remember, doing this will change the resistance if I didn't already mention that, but yeah, just a little trick for the newer builders out there. Alright, so I got my coils already ready to go, and we're gonna attempt to slide these in. This is why I hate doing builds on camera, because my camera is positioned in a way that makes trying to do something like this impossible, but I'm gonna do my best here. I think I got it. Did I get it? Whoa, I got it. Alright, let's slide that in there and let's grab the little Allen key, and let's tighten this down. Now we can clip the leads. Now, what you can do if you wanna make things a little bit easier, is you can install your coil. Don't screw it down. Clip the leads, and then that way, you can match up the other coil and know exactly where to clip the leads at, and then you can mount it and screw it down so that way, you avoid having to try to fit your cutters in here. Especially when you get that second coil in here, it's gonna be really hard to cut these leads, so you you might wanna precut them, but I usually do it like this.

And then the second coil I install, I precut. So we've got the coils installed and I got them pretty straight. I'm gonna try to do a compressed coil. I don't wanna really do a spaced coil, and I'm gonna take my tweezers and I just like the gap the coil to know how far to push it down. I'd probably push it a little bit lower, but I'm gonna try right about there. And then, all we need to do is just get rid of any hot spots in the coil. I'm pretty sure there's gonna be a few hot spots in here. Yes, there is. Just take the back side of your tweezers and just scrape the coils. Scrape a few times on one side, scrape on the other. And then just pulse it again, and then just keep continuing that until you get rid of all the hot spots. If you wanna do spaced coils, you can go ahead and leave it spaced. But I just prefer a compressed coil, that's all. Alright, much better. Go on this side, repeat the process. So once the coils are all set up and ready to go, what I sometimes do is I take my chimney cap and I'll screw it on the top.

Just to confirm that the coil isn't touching anywhere, so when I go to fire it, you'll see the coil is not gonna short out, so, we're good there... Now, I got some cotton I cut off camera, and we're just pretty much gonna wick it up. So I get it all wicked up. Now, we're gonna take our needle tip tweezers and we're gonna brush the ends of the cotton, so that way, we could thin out the cotton a little bit. So that way, it fits into the wicking channels, and you don't have to stuff the cotton in there, because if you stuff it in or pack it in too tight, the juice is not gonna absorb into the cotton, and you're gonna get a dry hit. So you wanna make sure the cotton goes in those channels pretty easily. But not too easy, to where it's gonna flood. You kind of want a happy medium between the two. Now, once you cut it, you wanna pretty much figure out how much wick you gotta cut off. And the only way to do that is kinda just eyeball it. So, I'm gonna tuck these wicks down into the channel. I think this side might be perfect, but the other side might need a little trimming.

And all you gotta do is just take your tool, your screwdriver, whatever, and just gently tuck the cotton down into the channel. Now, that you have it all wicked up, go ahead and grab your juice of choice, and just put a few drops on the cotton. So that way, if you need to adjust the cotton a little bit more, you can do so. So go ahead and prime it a little bit. And you'll see all the little... Frayed ends, here we go.. Of the cotton. They kinda need a little bit of adjusting. So, we're gonna do that. But let's just... Let's moisten it up just a little bit. So that looks pretty good right there. So go ahead and prime your coils up. If you wanna pulse it a little bit, you can, but I'm not gonna do it 'cause I'm sitting right in front of my camera. But go ahead and prime it up. Also, if you want, you could take your needle tipped tweezers and you could place it on the side right here, and you can kinda try to fluff the cotton out a little bit more if you like.

If you notice, it's kind of packed a little bit in there. Go ahead and take your tweezers and go inside there and just fluff it, so that way, the juice absorbs pretty quickly in the cotton. Go ahead and grab the chimney cap, and we'll screw that down into place. There we go. Tighten that down. Grab your tank section.

Screw it into place. What's the problem here? It's not screwing down, I don't like this. I'm not going to screw the RBA section to the cap first, because that's not how you do it. What's the problem here? Come on! What is this? Seriously? Are the threads matching up with this? Oh, wait a minute, what's... Oh, it's gotta go pretty deep inside there. I see what's going on. Alright, so with that said, let's loosen this up pretty loose. About right there. And this cap actually has to go down there pretty deep before it'll screw into place. Hopefully that did it. Oh, come on. Did it? Yeah, that did it. Great. Alright. Now, that we're screwed down and I got juice all over me, we could pop the cap on this. And we can fill her up... Got her all filled up, and that's pretty much gonna be it guys for the up close and personal with the new RBA section for the Prince. Let's jump back up and let's have a vape. So let's have a quick vape off it. And I guess we're not gonna talk too much about it 'cause it's only an RBA section, and it's kinda been done before, so there's not really much to talk about here.

I just wanted to show you guys the RBA section itself, how to build on it. And I guess that's pretty much it. So, I'm not sure what I'm doing here, I'm not sure what I'm doing right here, but let me have a vape really quick... I will say those little 2 millimeter coils I put in here are vaping very, very nice. I was really surprised. I usually put 2.5 or 3 millimeter in here, but I wanted to try something real small. 2 millimeters is not that bad at all... Very nice. So, that's it. A nice little RBA section, if you wanna turn your sub-ohm tank into a rebuildable. I was hoping for something a little bit more different. It's really basic, it's kind of like their previous RBA section. Doesn't seem like much has changed, but it has a lot of airflow to it. I run the airflow either halfway or a quarter of the way open. All the way open is just way too much airflow. So yeah, that's it. All links for the RBA section, guys, in the description. Tossing one into the stocking, and yeah, that's a wrap. So if you got any comments or questions, please feel free to leave them below. Please like, share, and subscribe. I'll talk to everyone very, very soon. Make sure you guys build safe, and vape on.