Dripper Vapes

Welcome, everybody, to another video of Vaping with Empire. I am Chapman.

I am Chapman.

He never gets it right. What are we doing today?

We are talking about RDAs.

Dripping 101. Basically, we're gonna go over a rebuildable dripping atomizer, or RDA. If we had a good producer, that would come up like that.

We don't.

And basically, we're gonna show you the ins and outs of one, the advantages of having one, why we use them all the time and like them, some safety precautions, and at the end of it, we're gonna build one and vape it. Yeah, I think that's what we're gonna do.

Yeah, yeah. That's what they told us to do, so...

What are you vaping on?

I am vaping on a Copper Able, battle deck, Captain's 2 Cap, and Silent Stalker from the Immolation Competition Wire Professional Cloud Serum.

That looks delicious. What's the flavor profile on that?

It is a bubble tape, like original bubble gum, it's delicious. I love this stuff.

I'm vaping on the old, reliable Ruby 25 that someone got me for my birthday, not gonna say who. I got a 22 Nichrome 4 Wrap, three millimeter inner diameter, which you'll see a little bit later, and I'm vaping on Caramel Crisp because it's delicious.

That stuff's good too. I like that stuff a lot.

It takes like caramel Rice Krispies. So, yeah. Anyway, back to dripping. So basically, what Hunter's gonna do now is go into depth about what an RDA is, the parts that make up an RDA, maybe some safety things, Ohm's Law is a good one. And yeah, and then we'll build a coil. So, see you in a minute.

See you there. What is an RDA? An RDA stands for a rebuildable dripping atomizer. So rebuildable, you build your own coils, which determines the type of vape that you actually have. Dripping, which is going to be you just dripping your own juice onto the coils. And then atomizer, it atomizes the juice and it's what vaporizes it and actually produces the vapor production. So to break down an RDA for you, we have a simple Archon RDA right here, three posts. So you can see the center post and the two outer posts right here. The center post is gonna be the positive post, which I actually have one taken apart in copper right here. That's gonna be what conducts the electricity from the battery up to the coils and it is connected through the pin at the very bottom, the copper piece down there. And the two outer posts are gonna be the negative, the ground to it. So basically, when it makes that, it's gonna make a controlled circuit, which is going to actually produce the vapor as it heats the coil.

To keep it safe, you have what we call an insulator right here. Insulator makes sure that it's not grounding out anywhere that it shouldn't be, mainly on the inside of the threads, on the inside there. Then you also have the juice well, right here. The juice well is basically what the cotton's going to go down into. It holds the juice, it brings it up to the wicks, and it'll actually allows you to keep it so your RDA doesn't go dry. You have this guy right here, which it has the adjustable airflow right across the side there, and you can turn it to however you like. If you want a little bit of a tighter draw with a cooler build or you want a little bit more open draw with a hotter build, that's really gonna determine where you're gonna have it. The reason why I really enjoy using an RDA is because I can determine the type of vape that I get. I can either have more cloud production, I can have better flavor, I can build whatever I need to based off of what I'm feeling that day. You can go with more surface area for a more tasty build, or you can go with a little bit less surface area with a higher gauge wire for a little bit of a hotter build. So that's basically an RDA broken down for you. Now, we're gonna go up to Chappy and we're going to actually show you how to build a coil for yourself.

So, guys, before we start building our coil, we need some stuff, we need some tools, we need some knowledge. We need to know what Ohm's Law is. Ohm's Law is essentially voltage divided by resistance, which gives us our amperage of our heating element, and it's gonna tell us how much power we draw from our battery or our mod or atomizer or vaporizer. Today we're gonna use some 20-gauge Nichrome, which is about 30% more conductive than Kanthal, so we're gonna need a couple more wraps. I like to use a Stanley screw driver set to wrap my coils on, but you can use basically anything that has the measurement of millimeters for a bit in your diameter. You're gonna need... You don't have to use needle-nose pliers, I would always recommend ceramic teasers 'cause they're non-conducted to help pinch your coil and shape it so it heats from the inside out. Some scissors so you can cut your cotton when it goes through, cotton obviously, some juice to put in on it afterwards, and either a mod or an ohm reader, or a regulated device that has an ohm reader on it to see where your coil's at after you build it. Alright. Today, we're gonna use the 521 tab 'cause I can literally build it, check its resistance, and then temp it, fire it, and even vape it if I want to. So let's get into wrapping a coil.

You're good.

After the cut, this is the second take of Chapman trying to wrap a coil. Snap, snap, snap. So now that I know my inner diameter is gonna be three millimeter, I'm gonna use this screw driver to wrap my coil around. I'm gonna use the wire here, and I like to pinch it between my thumb and whatever I'm wrapping around, just like this. Now, what I'm gonna do is, I know I wanna hit a resistance close to 0.1. Usually, when this is around six wraps, for this one, we're just gonna do seven to be safe. Okay? So what I like to do is once I have my wire firmly in my thumb and what I'm using to wrap it around, I'm gonna start my initial wrap. Now, this wrap doesn't have to be pretty, because what I'm going to do is pull this off when I'm finished. So this is the first wrap, which is nice and straight, my second wrap, my third wrap, my fourth wrap. Let's see here, fifth, sixth, seventh, now I'm gonna do eight.

So you notice here that I have kind of a gap right here, which is not a big deal because what we're gonna do now is I'm gonna take my needle-nose pliers, and I'm going to pull these wraps off and I'm actually going to cut the excess wire off, so I don't have a bunch of it flaying around, just like that, move that out of the way here. And I'm going to pull these wraps off, just like this. Nice and slow, take your time and just pull these off. You'll notice, when I'm done, I'll have a really nice, straight and even coil. Boom, now I'm gonna cut my leads. And I like to cut them uneven, 'cause when you stick them in the posts, if they're the equal size, it'll be a little bit difficult and you'll see in a second. Just one a little bit shorter than the other, just kind of like that. Okay?

So now I'm gonna grab my RDA, just like this here, and I'm gonna stick one end into the positive side and the other one into the negative post. Let's see here if I can see just like this. Now, once I have this firmly pressed against the post, 'cause I wanna get them basically as close as I can, especially this big of gauge of wire, I'm going to secure the wires by tightening my screws just like this, and there's my negative. Now, before I tighten my positive, I kinda wanna make this coil center, so I'm just gonna give it a good push, just like that. And because it's thicker wire, it's a little more difficult. And now I'm gonna tighten my positive just like that as well.

Now, I'm gonna give it one final little squeeze here. And when I remove my screwdriver, you should see that coil is basically in the center of the RDA. Awesome, right? You wanna make sure that none of your wires are touching the other posts because you could cause a short circuit that way, and these look pretty darn good. Now, I'm gonna cut the excess off in my flush cuts. And with 20-gauge, you wanna be careful because they tend to fly a little bit, but these ones aren't that bad. So now that we have our coil wrapped on the RDA, I'm gonna turn this on and read it's resistance. We're at 0.14, which is acceptable widely by any regulated device, usually, out there.

So, now that we know our resistance, we're going to temp these coils. Now, what we're doing here is making sure that this coil heats from the inside out evenly, and that there's no hot spots in here, which will give you a really bad flavor or evaporate your juice a little too quickly. So you can see that right here. So now I'm gonna give a pulse, let's see what it looks like without touching it. You see here, it started to evaporate all the finger juice I had on it, and the outer two are kinda heating up before the inside ones. So what I'm gonna do is give these a slight squeeze. Just right here, a little squeeze like that. Fire one more time. You can already tell it's helped out a bit. Now, here's a little trick I like to do. Once I get them a little hot, I'm gonna rake these coils. And what I'm doing is just putting microscopic separations between these wraps, align the coils so that'll weld itself together.

And I bet that with a little bit of luck, oh, yeah, that looks like it's heating pretty nicely. Beautiful inside out, no hot spots. And a good rule of thumb is even after you do this and it's heating from the inside out, you always wanna re-tighten your leads, yeah, a little turn there, a little extra turn... Oh, yeah. It's a lot of turn right there. And now... Beautiful. Super duper happy. So what's our next step here? A lot of people like to quench their coils, to keep them more rigid and in place. We don't have to do that here, I mean I could, but I'm not going to 'cause I ain't got no water right and handy, but I do have some cotton. I'm using Cotton Bacon today. I like it because a lot of the fibers are going in the same direction, which allows the juice to travel through it a little bit easier.

So what I'm gonna do is just twist one end off here, stick it down through, and be careful, 'cause your coil is probably gonna be still hot if you didn't quench it. Just like that. And I'll give it a good blow. And that'll be a joke in the comments. And I'm gonna pull my cotton through just like that. Now, the idea here is to make your cotton even density throughout the coil on the outside of it and the inside of it. If you have your cotton too tight on the inside, all that loose cotton on the outside is gonna get juice into it, but when it goes to wick into the coil where it's very tight, you're gonna find that it may be dry on the inside, it's not gonna taste very god. So now that my cotton's through, I'm gonna take my scissors, and I like to cut these evenly with the deck because the juice well is made for juice, not for cotton.

One of the biggest things I'll see with newer guys that are building, is they have a lot of cotton in their juice well because they think that all that cotton is gonna help soak up the juice. Really, what it's doing is taking up the space where juice needs to go. Now, I'm gonna grab a smaller screwdriver here. Let's see, I'll grab this one real quick. And I'm going to do what I prefer is like a little tuck and roll. So I'm gonna go underneath here, I'm gonna tuck, and I'm just gonna roll it in to the RDA, just like that. And then I'm just gonna push it back out, making sure that I leave enough area exposed of the coil, so that when I draw through it, it gets cold, or cooler I should say. So a little tuck and a little roll, and just like that. And then I'm going to, again, press this back out to make sure that I have enough airflow around my coil to keep it cool.

Just like that, nice and simple. Then you take some juice, and you get it all nice and drenched. Don't be afraid to over-juice it, I promise you right now, you can always evaporate juice, but you cannot un-burn cotton. I've done that a lot. Now, here's another cool thing. Heat draws in juice, right? So when I fire this, you'll watch it sink. Isn't that neat? Yes, I'll do it again so you could see. It sinks itself right in. And then once your cottons are nice and wet, you can fire the device and just like that. And the cool thing about the 521 Tab, is I can take the cap to my RDA, which you always want your airflow facing the coil to cool it, just like that. And I can literally vape it.

That's about it. I always suggest at building above 0.1 ohms, 'cause that's basically the cutoff for most regulated devices. And again, if you've seen our previous videos on battery safety, you really don't wanna push your batteries past their mass amperage or a device similar to like, say, a regulated device, you don't wanna go too low because they won't let you fire it. So if you're not sure, consult a professional, check out some more videos from us. I mean, that's basically it. And this is just a rough idea. We're gonna go back up top and we'll talk about some really good builders and where you can find some inspiration.

So now you've seen Dripping 101. If you're unsure about what you're doing when you're building your coil, make sure you check out our previous videos on battery safety, consult a professional. In fact, what you should do is just come into Empire Vape Shop, see me or him, and we can give you the guidance that you need. What is your favorite build?

My favorite build is a five wrapped 20-gauge Immolation Wire on a 3 millimeter bit. It ohms out to a 0.05 in a dual coil set up. I use it on a single tube mech mod. Usually, you were using a VTC4 battery 2100 milliamp hours. I really enjoy that build. It gives me good flavor, good vapor reduction throughout the day. What do you use?

I like a 22-gauge Mad Rabbit. I use a dual coil set up. It's usually a four wrap parallel. It's a 3 millimeter inner diameter. It ohms out pretty low, 0.04, 0.05, but I use it on my single tube mech, which is my Ruby 25, that someone got me for my birthday. And I use usually a 30 Amp, 30 Amp drain battery like an LG HB6 or HB2. And it's usually when I'm practicing for a comp, which is everyday, and check it, it's pretty rowdy.

So enough about him. What do you guys vape on?

True.

What's your favorite build? Who's your favorite builder on YouTube? Let us know because we would really like to check out some other things.

Yeah. Put it at the comments below.

We're always looking. Yeah. Yeah, certainly. We're usually pretty good, and if you have any questions like we said, either come and visit us, throw it in the comments, any questions that you have. But other than that, you can always check us out on Empire Vape Shop Facebook.

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Instagram.

Hit us up on Snapchat.

Empire Chappy.

Empire Hunter.

And remember, in less than a thousand days, your right to vape is gonna be taken away by the FDA unless you do something about it. So go to casaa.org, become a member, do a call to action 'cause now more than ever, we need you to keep it cloudy.

Keep it cloudy you guys.

Cheers guys.